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The
following information has been provided by PDRA
(Paint and
Decorating Retailers Association)
PAINT
PAINT
APPLICATORS
PAINT
How
do I figure how much paint I'll need for my project?
Good question.
There are lots of factors involved, but for most interior and exterior
projects the following will usually give you an accurate estimate
of your needs. Simply calculate the square footage of the surfaces
to be painted and divide by the number of square feet that the manufacturer
indicates can be covered by a gallon of your selected paint.
Estimating
Example
For
example, if a room is 10 feet by 20 feet with 8-foot ceilings, your
square footage is 480 (the circumference times the ceiling height).
If you have a number of windows and doors, subtract the square footage
of those openings (standard doors are about 21 square feet, standard
windows about 15 square feet). For many paints, including primers
and stains, a gallon will cover about 400 square feet (the product
label will show the coverage). Since two coats are normally recommended
for most projects, two gallons would be needed for the 10-by-20-foot
room example. (This assumes there are one or two windows.) Remember,
it's always a good idea to have a little leftover paint for future
touchups.
As
mentioned earlier, there are a number of factors that affect how
much paint you'll need. These include the type of surface being
covered and the color currently on thesurface as well as the one
being applied. The best way to ensure that you have the proper amount
of paint for your project is to take your measurements and other
information (surface being covered, its condition and color) to
your local independent paint retailer.
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When
purchasing paint, I've been asked if I want flat, high gloss, satin
and even an eggshell finish. What do these terms mean, and does
it really make any difference what kind of finish I have?
Those
terms refer to the sheen or gloss level of the paint, and, yes,
it does make a difference which one you use. The sheen or gloss
level simply means the degree of light reflectance of the paint.
The terms you mention are ones that various manufacturers use to
describe the shininess of their products. The following chart explains
what each term means, and where paint with that type of gloss should
be used. Your local independent paint retailer also can recommend
the type of gloss you need for your particular paint project.
- High Gloss
(70+ on a 60-degree gloss meter)
Where to Use:
For kitchen and bathroom walls, kitchen cabinets, banisters and
railings, trim, furniture, door jambs and window sills.
Comments:
More durable, stain-resistant and easier to wash. However, the
higher the gloss, the more likely surface imperfections will be
noticed.
- Semi-gloss
(35 to 70 on a 60-degree gloss meter)
Where to Use:
For kitchen and bathroom walls, hallways, children's rooms, playrooms,
doors, woodwork and trim.
Comments:
More stain-resistant and easier to clean than flat paints. Better
than flat for high-traffic areas.
- Satin or
Silk (Range overlapping eggshell and semi-gloss)
Similar characteristics to semi-gloss and eggshell.
- Eggshell
(20 to 30 on a 60-degree gloss meter)
Where to Use:
Can be used in place of flat paints on wall surfaces especially
in halls, bathrooms and playrooms. Can be used in place of semi-gloss
paints on trim for a less shiny appearance.
Comments:
It resists stains better than flat paint and gives a more lustrous
appearance.
- Flat (less
than 15 on a 60-degree gloss meter)
Where to Use:
For general use on walls and ceilings.
Comments:
Hides surface imperfections. Stain removal can be difficult. Use
for uniform, non-reflecting appearance. Best suited for low-traffic
areas.
- Matte
Same characteristics as flat.
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I
have vinyl siding that I thought was going to look like new forever.
Now it has started to fade and has weather-damaged areas. Must I
replace it or can I paint it and save some money?
Painting
your old vinyl siding makes good sense both economically and aesthetically.
Not only can you make it look like new again, you can, if you wish,
change the color and give it a whole new look. Note that you can
do the same thing with aluminum siding. Surface preparation and
the use of a quality paint are the keys to painting both vinyl and
aluminum siding. (However, check with the siding manufacturer to
make sure that painting does not void the warranty.)
For vinyl, the
first step is to remove any chalking and stains as well as any dirt
by cleaning with a power washer or by hand-scrubbing with warm,
soapy water and thoroughly rinsing. one caution: Never try to remove
stubborn stains on vinyl siding with a wirebrush, sandpaper or a
power sander. These can permanently damage your siding. After the
surface is dry, paint using a quality paint. Note that you should
not paint with a color darker than the original color of the vinyl
siding. Why? Because dark colors can absorb the sun's heat, causing
the siding panels to warp.
For aluminum
siding, any surface oxidation must be completely removed by careful,
light rubbing with steel wool. If mildew is present, remove it by
scrubbing with a bleach solution (one part bleach to three parts
water). Power-wash or hand-scrub with warm, soapy water and rinse.
Be sure to remove all chalking, loose paint, dust, dirt, and bleach
solution. Spot-prime areas where bare aluminum may be exposed. After
the surface is dry, paint as you would any siding using a good quality
paint.
For authoritative
advice on repainting your vinyl or aluminum siding along with the
proper type and quality paint to do the job, check with your local
independent paint retailer.
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I
see prices ranging from less than $10 to $25 or more for a gallon
of paint. Is there really any difference between one paint and another,
or should I try to save some money?
As with almost
any product, when you purchase paint you usually get what you pay
for. Purchasing paint strictly on the basis of price will end up
costing you more in the long run. Here's why. As long as you're
comparing two similar types of paint (i.e. interior wall paint,
exterior trim paint), price differences usually reflect a difference
in the quality and/or the amount of the key ingredients. Since it's
the ingredients that affect such important qualities as durability,
flow, hide and leveling, the better the quality of the paint the
easier it will be to apply and the longer it will normally last.
In fact, a top-quality paint can last as much as twice as long as
a low-end paint. This lowers the cost per year of service which
saves you not only money, but also sweat if you do your own painting.
If you use a professional painter, you save even more by insisting
on a top-quality paint. That's because the paint represents only
a fraction of the cost of repainting; most of the expense is for
the contractor's labor.
By spending
a little more upfront on your paint, you avoid frequent repainting.
Naturally, if your budget is tight, watch for a sale on a top quality
paint. However, remember to purchase the best paint you can afford.
It will always be your best value in the long run. Consult your
local independent paint retailer for the proper paint for your project.
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My
know-it-all neighbor tells me weather conditions need to be considered
when I paint the outside of my house. Obviously, I shouldn't paint
in the rain or the mid-day sun, but otherwise does the weather make
any difference? Or, is my neighbor all wet?
Your
know-it-all neighbor does, at least, know something about exterior
painting. Paint when the temperature is above 60 and below 90 degrees
F. Otherwise the drying time will be adversely affected. Avoid not
only rain but also wind. High winds not only can cause your paint
to dry too quickly, they can also blow dirt and other debris onto
the wet surface. You should also try to paint with the shade. In
other words, if you can avoid painting indirect sunlight, do so.
Always check the manufacturer's instructions on the paint can label
and get advice from your local independent paint retailer.
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I
want to have a professional paint my house. How do I find a good
house painter and what information should I require in the quote?
Those
are both good questions. To find a good painting contractor, ask
friends and neighbors for recommendations or see if your local independent
paint retailer has a list. once you're ready to talk to them, ask
for and check references. When they give you a quote, get a firm
price and both a start and finish date, find out who will actually
do the work, check to see if the contractor has liability insurance
(and bonding if necessary), and never pay in advance. A bid or contract
also should include a list of the work that is to be done, how many
coats for each surface, the type of paint to be used for each part
of the job, the preparation work that will be done, and who furnishes
the paint and other materials.
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The
paint is coming off the exterior of my house even though I used
an expensive paint and applied two coats. Why is this happening,
how can I correct it, and what will it take to prevent it in the
future?
Without
taking a look at your specific situation, it's very difficult to
give a specific answer. There are simply too many different types
of problems that involve paint not adhering to exterior surfaces.
For example, there are terms such as alligatoring, blistering, checking
and cracking to describe different problems that can occur. However,
almost all paint failures are due to poor or improper surface preparation.
Another cause is improper application. The use of quality paint
also is important, but, as in your case, will not ensure against
adhesion problems if the surface is not properly prepared and the
paint is not applied correctly.
To briefly answer
both your second and third questions, yes, you can correct your
problem and by properly doing so avoid the same problem in the future.
Remove all loose, flaking or peeling paint, clean, spot prime where
necessary, solve any moisture problems you may have and repaint
with a quality paint using correct application procedures.
That's the brief
answer. For a complete and authoritative answer to your specific
paint problem, see your local independent paint retailer. In many
cases they have a publication and/or CD-ROM disk entitled Paint
Problem Solver which illustrates many common exterior and interior
problems and explains the cause and solution.
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Should
I use a water-based latex paint or an oil-based paint?
That
depends. Both will do an excellent job under most circumstances.
Water-based paints have a number of advantages especially for of
do-it-yourselfers including ease-of-clean-up and general ease-of-use.
In addition, top-quality latex paints generally have excellent adhesion
to most surfaces and generally exhibit superior resistance to bleaching
and fading when compared to oil-based paints. However, to determine
which type of paint you should use for your specific project, consult
your local independent paint retailer.
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Is
it always necessary to apply two coats of an exterior paint?
Actually, if
you are painting new siding or where all of the previous coating
has been removed, you should first apply a coat of primer followed
by two coats of paint. However, if the surface was previously painted
and that old paint is still sound, a single coat ofa quality paint
will probably suffice. Your local independent paint retailer can
advise you as to whether two coats will be necessary for your particular
situation.
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How
do I select a good color for the exterior of my house? I want something
to set my house off yet that is in good taste.
Your home's
exterior is the first impression visitors have of you. You should
want it to look good. First, be sure to take into account the fixed
colors of your home -brick, stone work and the roof color. You may
want to consider choosing a paint color that will pick up the color
from one of these non-painted areas such as, for example, a brown
that appears in your brick. In addition, the style of your home
may play a role in the colors you select. If, for example, you have
an architecturally accurate reproduction of a colonial-style home,
you may want to use authentic exterior colors from that period.
Or, if you have a Victorian-era home you may want to use a number
of colors to accentuate the architectural details (gingerbread)
on your home. Generally, you can't go wrong selecting a light color
for the body of the house and a darker, complementary color for
the trim. Another way to set your home off is to create an interesting
welcoming entrance by painting your front door in a bold color scheme.
Your local independent paint retailer can help you select just the
right color scheme for your exterior project.
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PAINT
APPLICATORS
What
type of roller should I use on different surfaces?
- Wallboard
or smooth plaster - use a short nap 1/8 to 1/4 inch
- Light-textured
stucco or poured concrete - use a medium nap 3/8 to 3/4 inch
- Cyclone fencing/wire
fences - use long nap 1" - 11/2 "
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Does
it matter what type of brush you use with any type of paint?
Generally, there
are two types of paint brushes, those made of natural-hair bristles
and those made with synthetic materials (usually nylon or polyester).
Natural bristle
brushes are preferred for use with solvent-based (oil- or alkyd-based)
paints, especially for enamel or finish work. Natural bristles are
hollow and can absorb the water contained in a latex paint, causing
them to swell and become soft and limp (similar to your own hair
when it is wet).
Most synthetic
brushes work well with both latex and solvent-based paints, but
always check the manufacturer's recommendations on the brush. Some
of the solvents used in solvent-based paints can break-down the
compensation of a synthetic bristle-once again check the label.
Keep in mind,
the same above rules apply to roller covers: synthetic vs. natural
(wool).
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Which
types of applicator applies paint the most efficiently?
In terms of
time, the most efficient applicators are listed in order:
In terms of
which is most effective in least amount of wasted paint listed in
order:
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Is
an expensive brush really that much better than a cheap one?
High quality
or more expensive brushes have distinct advantages over the cheaper
ones. First of all, a high quality brush will finish the job more
quickly. This is because a top-quality brush has the ability to
"hold" more paint in reservoir, which means you will spend
less time "painting the can" than applying the paint to
the surface. Also, a top-quality brush will have a tapered end,
which means there are shorter bristles on the outside and longer
bristles in the center. Tapered bristles give the painter more control
over where and how much paint goes onto the surface. A top-quality
brush will also not shed bristles like a cheaper brush, because
of how firmly the bristles are seated in the ferrule (the metal
band that attaches the bristles to the handle), and also determined
by the material used as plugs (space plugs inside the ferrule that
bond the bristles in the ferrule, add taper to the bristles, and
finally create "wells" in the center of the bristles to
hold paint) in the ferrule.
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What
type of brush should I use if both oil and water base paints are
being applied?
Nylon &
polyester blend paintbrushes work well in both oil and water-base
paints.
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How
many brushes do I need to purchase for a standard painting project?
Generally you
need to buy two brushes: a 3" to 4" size brush for larger
surfaces and a 1" to 2" angular brush for smaller surfaces,
trim work, cutting in (trimming an edge or border with a brush,
such as where a wall meets the ceiling or at the edge of woodwork)
and touch up.
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What
should I look for to determine if a roller cover is of good quality?
Run your hand
over the cover to see if it sheds any lint. If it doesn't, it's
probably a good cover.
Check both ends
of the cover to see if there is any fabric hanging over either end.
Good quality covers are "beveled" and there should be
no overhanging fabric.
Look for the
seam in the roller cover. If you don't see one, then its probably
a good cover. If you see any gaps in the cover or loose backing
at either end, that means the cover is of inferior quality.
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How
does a good quality brush benefit me and my painting project?
- Faster overall
painting with less effort
- No unsightly
brush streaks
- Less bristle
or filament shedding
- Easier "cutting
in" for those tight areas
- Outstanding
finish appearance
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How
does a good quality roller benefit me and my painting project?
- Levels the
paint finish without shadows or valleys
- Will not
shed lint on the painted surface
- Will not
skid or track when rolling
- Will not
delaminate during use
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How
should I care for my brush so that it maintains its performance
level use after use?
Clean immediately
after use - paint thinner or kerosene with bristle brushes; soap
and water with nylon/polyester brushes.
Use a brush
comb to clean and straighten the bristles.
Do not soak
your brushes for extended periods of time. They will lose their
shape if you do.
If possible,
store your brush by hanging it. Do not store a brush on its tips.
This will curl the working tip of the brush rendering if useless.
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